More Climbing Equipment for Beginners

Belay Device - If you climbed at the gym your belayer probably used a simple looking, short, tube shaped device to belay
you. This style is one of the more prolific styles out there but it is hardly the only belay device available. As a beginning climber
your best bet is to start with simple, proven equipment and there are really two good styles we recommend here. In the
pictures below you will see two ATC (Air Traffic Controller) models offered by Black Diamond. They may look different
but their function is extremely similar and their purpose is identical (keeping your climbing pal from decking). The gold
tube-style device on the left is one of the most commonly used devices you'll find out there. Low price, simplicity and function
are its major selling points. It also doesn't hurt that this is the device type most climbers are initially exposed to and learn to
trust. Black Diamond's XP Belay Device on the right is just as easy to use, more durable, but slightly more expensive.

Large Locking Carabiner - For the love of all that is good and holy in the world, do NOT buy your carabiner from the pet
store. Our biggest concern is that you'll go out and get a novelty carabiner, take one hard fall on it and die. There are toy
varieties and there's the real thing. You want the real thing! If you are unsure if the carabiner you have is certified for climbing,
DON'T USE IT FOR CLIMBING! Use it to connect a lead to your dog or as a key ring.

A carabiner certified as load-bearing will have a kN rating stamped on the spine (the side opposite the gate). kN ratings should
address load-bearing ability across both axis of the carabiner with and without the gate open. The higher these numbers, the
more force the carabiner can withstand in a fall. 24kN across the length is a good enough rating to start. A normal rating for a
climbing carabiner might be 24kN along the length, 8kN along the width and 7kN along the width with the gate open. There
are more in-depth writings (including the document that comes with your carabiner) that cover the meaning of kN but, in
essence, it is a measure of kilonewtons or force the carabiner is able to resist. 1kN equates to about 224 pounds of force.
Hence, a 25kN rated carabiner can resist about 5600 pounds of force. While that may seem excessive (and everything should
be excessive when your life is on the line) the dynamics of arresting a fall at the anchors can result in tremendous amounts of
force far beyond what you'd expect. We can't emphasize enough that you ensure your carabiners are certified as load-bearing
and the more the better.

As you'll be using this carabiner as part of your belay system attached to your harness, it wouldn't hurt to get a slightly larger
version rather than a D-shaped or oval model. The carabiner you should get is called an asymmetrical D shape, will be slightly
tapered at one end and have more of a pear shape. Of critical importance is the locking gate. There are non-locking and wire
gate carabiners out there that you'll eventually own a bunch of for setting up anchors (always with two carabiners set in
opposition) or for use in quick-draws and slings, but for belaying you'll want this to have a locking gate. Truth told, you'll feel
much more comfortable with a pair of locking carabiners in opposition for anchors, too, but we're not there yet. That's quite a
few classes away for you.

For an example of what we'd like you to get, please visit DMM, go to products and take a look at their locking carabiners
page or just click here. While DMM offers some great equipment, similar products of equally good quality are available
through Petzl, Black Diamond and other manufacturers. Find what's available at your local retailer or order online, but just
remember that kN rating!!!

You can find similar models made by other manufacturers. We've personally had nothing but good experiences using these
models by Black Diamond. Perhaps, though, you're wondering what sets these models apart from more expensive models.
Petzl manufactures a device called a Grigri and you might well hear it mentioned or see people using it. It's a great device...
for an experienced belayer. Grigri's do a great job of auto-arresting a falling climber and that's certainly a good thing. There
are four good reasons NOT to recommend such a device to a new climber. First, you have to learn the fundamental rules of
belaying. Rule #1 is NEVER take your hand off the break line. I've witnessed belayers using Grigri's get lazy and break this
granddaddy of rules. Assuming the Grigri auto-arrests, no harm done. But what if this belayer finds themselves using a different
belay device someday? What if that bad habit carries over? Far better that you have this #1 rule hammered hard and fast into
your head before you move to a device that might inspire laziness. The next reason we recommend against such a device for
now is complexity. Rigging an ATC-style belay device is a walk in the park. A Grigri requires more attention to detail and, if
rigged wrong, can result in a failure. Let's get cozy with the whole belaying process until it's second nature before adding a
more complex element to the process. Third, the break release on a Grigri can be (and has been) used improperly resulting in
a sudden and rapid descent for the climber. If not corrected quickly, a ground strike can result. At the very least you'll scare
the hell out of the climber if you do this. Finally, price. The ATC on the left will run you about $15-19 at your local REI. The
Grigri goes for over $80. What's the upside of a Grigri? Well, that auto-locking feature means you can let your flailing climber
rest on the rope without having to maintain an iron grip on the break (your hand should still remain on the break, mind you.)
Consider it a future investment if you find yourself loving this sport and doing it often. Those with plenty experience using
Grigris love them