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Getting Started Moving Outside |
Chalk & Chalk Bags - There's not too terribly much to say about this stuff. There's not much difference between the chalk gymnasts use and the chalk climbers use but we get more options. The function of chalk is simply to cut down on wetness. Hands perspire. Hands attached to humans doing scary stuff perspire even more! Chalk comes loose or in a chalk ball. Many gyms prefer you buy it in a chalk ball as it results in less spilled chalk all over their gym. The loose stuff, however, is great to have in your bag when you're climbing outside on really difficult stuff as you can really get well and truly chalked up before and during your climb. Chalk also comes in rock-colored varieties though it has received a mixed reception. Many climbers, myself included, have found the colored stuff feels greasy. While it is certainly more aesthetic (not as noticeable on the rock) I find I prefer to use the regular white stuff and just use it conservatively. Try not to leave hand-prints all over the cliffs when climbing outdoors. It spoils the route for others who might want to figure out the holds themselves and it's an eyesore to the hikers and naturalists with whom we share the wilderness. Chalk bags are a matter of personal preference and come in a variety of subtle and garish colors and patterns. The only things you need to consider when grabbing a chalk bag are - does it come with a belt (for bouldering as you won't wear a harness bouldering), is the mouth wide enough and bag deep enough to accommodate your hands (I'm ham-fisted and need a wide, deep bag) and does it match your stunning, out-there personality. To get an idea of available styles, check with the climbing suppliers we've already linked or with Mammut at http://www.Mammut.com, a company without which this or any other climbing article would be incomplete. If nothing else, take a gander at their killer flash page! |
Graduating to the Outdoors |
Assuming you and your climbing buddy(s) have done the gym thing, taken some classes on anchors and knots and are ready to go outside, there are a few additional elements you'll need to set up a fun, safe outdoor TR climb at your local crag and the list isn't limited entirely to tangible objects. The one item you need not listed to the left is a round of applause. You're about to experience the real thing. No more conveniently taped routes! This is where both the work and the serious fun begin! |
Knowledge |
Rope |
Webbing |
Static line |
More Carabiners |
Additional items for outdoor climbing- |
Knowledge - More than anything else, what you've learned about safety, equipment, anchors and knots is hands down the most important thing you can bring to the rocks. All the equipment in the world will not serve to keep you safe or alive if you don't have the knowledge to use it correctly. This entire article should serve as a motivation to try the sport but should not be taken as an instructional tool. That's outside its scope and intent. Take those classes and definitely check our Recommended Reading section for some must-have additions to your library that will serve to make you a good, well-rounded climber. All of that's the obvious and we've stated it several times already so we'll quit with the nagging as long as you promise you get it! In addition to the above, knowing where you're going and what to expect when you get there will go a long way to keeping the excursion fun rather than frustrating. Find a climbing guide to your destination and study it. If nobody has published a book about your location, look online for some topo put together by locals. Plan some routes within your limits in advance. If you're ready for the outdoors then you've already learned enough to know what you can and can't do. There's absolutely no point in even packing the car if your destination is full of Trad routes with no topside approaches unless you've already learned enough to climb trad (if that were the case you wouldn't be here reading this). If you can't walk to the top to setup your top rope anchors, you won't be doing any climbing. Likewise, make sure your destination has plenty routes at your level. I've been places in which the climbing catered heavily to experience levels well above mine or well below but there were only one or two routes at a level I would find both fun and challenging. Studying ahead will also give you some insight into restrictions (climbing locations are often on private property and it is the owner's generosity that lets us climb there. Know the rules so you don't spoil the place for everybody else). A bit of reading will also let you know what kind of approach to expect. Routes are not always conveniently located near parking. Knowing how far you'll have to walk or hike before you can climb will prevent an unpleasant surprise. Knowledge and some advance studying is your best friend when heading to a climbing destination for the first time. Rope - As you're cutting the apron strings with the gym, you can kiss pre-rigged routes and padded floors goodbye. You're going to need a rope for your outdoor event. You and your climbing partner could split the cost on this item but be prepared for a custody battle if you ever have a falling out. The two types of rope you'll find yourself faced with are Static and Dynamic rope. The difference in the two is the stretch factor. Dynamic ropes have a bit of stretch to them and this is important to a climber (and belayer). A dynamic rope absorbs a significant amount of the load taken on a fall. It is absolutely critical for Trad and Sport climbing. Static rope is less forgiving and has minimal stretch. It's most commonly used for rappelling or setting TR anchors. Experienced climbers will tell you that the short falls and minimal loads in TR climbing mean that you can elect to purchase a less expensive static rope rather than a dedicated, dynamic climbing rope. While essentially true, we don't recommend this approach. Yes, the loads are lighter on a TR fall but, as relatively new climbers, you might find your belayer giving a bit more slack in the system than an experienced belayer might. This can result in a back-wrenching, anchor-straining catch on the rope if you fall. A dynamic rope will take out a lot of the sting on you, your belayer and the anchors. Besides, if you find yourself climbing regularly you might soon be trying out Sport Climbing. Go static and you'll suddenly find yourself facing the cost of a new dynamic rope. Get it out of the way up front, we say. Click Next below for more on ropes. |
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