Climbing Equipment for Beginners

In a perfect world you've taken our advice and enjoyed your first gym experience. You've learned how to tie a figure 8,
thread a belay device like an ATC, the importance of feet vs hands, why we wear those weird shoes, how to check your
buddy's harness and knots, etc. If you haven't and all this stuff sounds alien too you, that's ok. It'll make sense when you
finally do make it to the gym.

For now, let's assume you've done the gym thing or eventually will and you've decided you enjoy climbing enough to commit
to the purchase of some initial gear. There's a lot of it out there but just what do you really need to continue climbing in the
gym and eventually move outside?

The list to the left encompasses your foundational equipment. The first 4 are really
essential to learning to climb and advance your limits while remaining safe. While the
chalk bag and chalk are listed as optional, most climbers wouldn't touch a wall without
them. They are relatively inexpensive additions so, while listed as optional, we
recommend you spend the $20 or so dollars for a bag and some chalk.

This list assumes you will be doing some actual climbing on a rope (provided by the
gym). If your intention is only to boulder, the only items you'll find yourself needing are
the shoes, bag and chalk.

All of the equipment combined could run you anywhere from $137 at the low end
to $250 at the high end. As with anything you can find deals that will reduce your
costs somewhat and you could certainly spend more than the high-end number if
you wanted to pick up exotic versions of the gear above but there really is no
point. Also look into package deals (harness, belay device, carabiner, chalk bag
combos or variations on the theme are often available. We'll discuss each item
individually and you can click the list above for pictures of each item.

Harness - This essential item is what connects the climber and the belayer to the rope. Models vary in comfort, come in
gender specific fits and usually have accessory loops for attaching carabiners, quick draws and other climbing equipment.
When picking a harness, get one that can be fit snuggly but comfortably. Don't buy a size that limits your ability to constrict it
to a snug fit. A too-loose harness is not a good thing. A too-tight harness is an uncomfortable thing. Get one that allows you
to adjust up or down. Padding is a nice bonus for new climbers who are likely to spend a fair amount of time hanging in their
harness while they try to figure out how to get past a difficult section of a climb. Read the literature that comes with your
harness, then read it again. Make absolutely certain you know how the harness should be put on and strapped. Request a
demo at your climbing retailer if the directions aren't absolutely clear. Failing to correctly strap down and double back a
harness has, plain and simple, resulted in death. Make sure you know your gear so it can do what it's designed to do - keep
you alive.

Climbing Shoes - The most preference-specific piece of climbing gear you'll buy, a good shoe is an absolute essential
ingredient for graduating from the kiddy-wall at the gym to more difficult routes. This one is getting a long write up as there's
a lot that goes into picking the right shoe and who wants to blow $70 and up on a bad choice?

Experienced climbers often buy shoes 1, 2 or more sizes smaller than their street shoes! DO NOT LISTEN TO THEM.
The absolute worst thing you can do as a beginning climber is go out and buy a shoe so painful and uncomfortable that you
can't stand to put it on just because that's what the experienced guys do. While the half to one-and-a-half down size advice
is a nice starting point to try out, it's not written in stone. A too-tight shoe is a sure-fire way to turn you off to climbing. Really
spend time getting to know the shoe you're going to buy. Try it on without socks (most climbers avoid socks as they diminish
the "feel" of the rock through the shoe and allow for slippage). The shoe should be snug enough that it doesn't roll or slip
when you stand on a thin edge, but not so uncomfortably tight that you can't stand to wear them for at least 15-20 minutes or
more.

My best climbing shoes, the ones I pull out for stuff at the far end of my skill level, are so tight and thin (letting me feel every
bump on the wall) that I can handle them for maybe 10 minutes before I have to take them off and let my feet recover. I use
these shoes for climbing at my absolute limit. But if I'm out with my friends running laps on fun rock, my best shoes are not
my best shoes. For such occasions I opt for a different pair of shoes that are far more comfortable and forgiving on my
too-wide Flintstone feet. The day I bought that more comfortable pair of shoes is one of my happiest and I actually went UP
a shoe size to get that comfort. I often climb better on hard stuff in that forgiving set of shoes simply because I'm not
distracted by the pain and discomfort of brutally scrunched toes.

It's extraordinarily difficult to describe to a new climber what the right shoe is for them. The important thing is that you NOT
run out and buy the most expensive set of imported climbing shoes you can find. It's practically a given that you'll want to
trade them for something more comfortable or more focused on the types of climbing you will be doing in the near future. If
you insist on throwing away $120 or more on high-end footwear that will just sit in your closet, might we suggest you just
send us the money instead? A more realistic approach would be to get a reasonably priced, general purpose shoe that is
snug but not agonizing to wear. As you grow in the sport and understand the physical demands better and as your feet get
stronger you'll refine your selection and eventually get the shoe (or several pairs) you'll want to keep.

There are so many variables that go into buying a good shoe that it's impossible to
recommend one that will suit all feet and all tastes. Shoes can be designed for general
purpose, all day Trad or bone-crushing performance. They can be good on micro-edges,
smears or cracks. They come in lace-ups, velcro and slippers. They can be suited for
wide feet or narrow feet. The rubber on one brand may be stickier but less durable than
on another brand or model. What you will unfortunately find all too common is the
recommendation that they be very tight.