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Is Climbing for Me? Part Two - Variety Continued |
Top Rope - TR Also known as TR, top roped climbs represent one of the safest of the available styles. Routes are single pitch (can be done with one length of rope), are usually between 25 - 80 ft in height and rely on comparatively sound anchor systems. The anchors are set at the top of the climb. Most often, the rope passes from the belayer at the bottom, up through the anchors at the top of the route and then back down to the climber in a slingshot or inverted V style. As the climber ascends, the belayer takes in rope. TR can also involve the belayer at the top of the route (and well tied in to anchors) taking in rope as the climber ascends to him. TR climbing has a more forgiving penalty for failure and is the style best suited for beginners, allowing the climber to rest on the rope without losing any ground (something to be avoided when possible for good style but fine for beginners or projects). Falls (though terrifying for a beginner) should only result in a few feet of drop with very light loads on the rope and very little lost ground as a result of the fall. It's practically a given that this is the style you'll start with. |
In this top rope rig you can barely make out the rope traveling from the climber (Matt), out of frame to the top of the route and then back down and going off screen to the belayer on the left. |
As mentioned, the most common way a top rope climb is handled involves the climber and belayer both starting out at the bottom. They've already rigged anchors at the top of the route and run the rope through them. The belayer reels in rope as the climber ascends. This configuration means the following - there must be a means of setting anchors at the top. Either there is a convenient walk-up to the top of the cliff to set anchors or you've brought along an experienced climber who is willing to trad or free-solo their way to the top to set anchors. Mercifully the former is usually the case at your average TR friendly climbing crag. Another point to consider is that the length of your rope dictates the maximum height of the route. The average climbing rope runs about 60 meters or 196 feet. As the standard top roping method has both climber and belayer starting off on the bottom, half the length of the rope is used to go up to the anchors and the other half comes back down to the climber. |
This means the maximum height possible in such a rig is 98 feet (minus a few feet for knots and safety). We stated it is possible for the belayer to sit anchored at the top of the route and reel in rope as the climber ascends to him. In this configuration the full length of the rope can be put to use resulting in climbs approaching 200' in height. It's not very common to see that kind of setup at your average TR friendly crag, though, so expect to be staying in the 90' and below range. You'll find that's plenty high enough for now. |
Here you can see the rope doubled back through the anchors at the top of the climb. One end goes to the climber, the other to the belayer. |
Now just because TR climbing tends to be safer than say Traditional or Sport climbing doesn't mean it is without risk. Climbers have died in TR accidents. As stated before, though, these accidents are almost always the result of human error. A climber might forget to tie a safety knot or gets interrupted while gearing up and forgets to double back their harness. Perhaps they make a poor anchor choice or their belayer is an absent-minded buffoon. The point is that climbing any significant height means risk. We aren't telling you this to scare you, we're telling you this so that you'll approach this sport with the right frame of mind. Don't read this site and a couple books and set off into the unknown. It has been done and done well, yes. I myself am a product and survivor of the learn by reading and doing approach. Now that I'm older and there are so many options available (guides, formal classes, gyms with experienced instructors, etc) that weren't as accessible when I started, I wouldn't dream of approaching this sport the way I did before. Get ye' to the gym and learn how to tie knots, set anchors, belay properly and climb efficiently. You and your friends will be better off for it, I promise. |
Fear and Fitness Ok, so we've established that there are styles out there suited to the virgin climber. The next question is your fitness level. Before we go any further, though, we recommend you consult your physician prior to engaging in this, or any other sport for the first time. I'm going to be brutally frank - the slimmer you are, the easier it's going to be on both your belayer and on you. I don't think I'm telling you, dear reader, anything you didn't already assume is true. The good news, however, is that I've seen some surprisingly overweight people burning off substantial calories at the climbing gym. The routes are harder for these people and their belayers do have to anchor themselves to the ground when they are belaying somebody substantially heavier than they are, but the system still works. It isn't the weight of the belayer that counters your fall, it's the friction in the system. That rope passing through anchors and the belay device coupled with its dynamic nature (it's a little bit stretchy) means far less impact on the belayer when you slip off a hold than you'd imagine possible. I myself have climbed at 40 pounds over my ideal weight and my belayer had no problems. If you're 5'9'' and approaching 300 pounds, however, I would recommend staying off ropes and bouldering until you've slimmed down. Ideally, pursue other exercise until you get closer to your fighting-weight as the strain on your tendons and joints will be tremendous if you are that substantially over-weight. What we don't want you to feel is discouraged. There is no shame in being overweight. Hell, in the US, you are just another among many. More the norm than not. If you really want to try climbing, however, slimming down towards your ideal weight is going to make the sport far more approachable than not. |
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